Ulpiana: monumental site and world heritage

Based on the Reportage by Zef Ndrecaj

Ulpiana in the hand of those who destroyed it

(the hand of  Turkish archaeologists)
http://www.revistadrini.com/?p=25013

Ulpiana is a city founded in the early II century by the Emperor Trajan. Ulpiana was a very famous Illyrian city, before the arrival of the Romans and the reconstruction after the invasion was only a continuation of the re-novation and the re-construction of Ulpiana as a city and an Illyrian settlement. The city is near the city of Pristina in today Kosovo.

Ulpiana10 di Atdheu - Opera Propria - Licenza CC BY-SA 3.0 - WIKI Commons

During the Roman occupation in the I century AD, Ulpiana was an extremely strong protective fortress from the Illyrian epoch and the Illyrian - Roman war caused a great damage of the city of Ulpiana. Roman rule brought a number of changes in cultural life and social life in Dardania. They arose towns, castles, villages, villas rustica, cult objects, as well as the ancient road network on the road routes of the previous Dardanian reign.

Even after the Roman conquest, among the most important cities, became Ulpiana again, now built on the devastating ruins that the invasion brought on it. That Ulpiana was an Illyrian settlement before the Romans as also testified by the recent discoveries in palafit residence, cemetery with Dardanian first phase ceramics and iron ornaments from IV century BC. These show that Ulpiana was filed on prehistoric layers Dardanian residence.

Goths invasions in Illyria, during the V century, would have included Ulpiana which again faced the experience of the greatest devastation by the earthquake that struck Dardania in 518 and caused great havoc and huge damage to the city. After the destruction, Emperor Justinian rebuilt the ruined walls and the destructed objects, while in tribute, the city was baptized with the name of new Ulpiana and “Secunda Justiniana” (Justiniana Secunda).

Walled city up to 3 mt. wide and with two semicircular towers of 27.5 mt. has irregular rectangle shape. It occupies the area of 35, 5 ha. About 50 mt. East of Ulpiana on VI century was raised a fortified settlement, which has identified with the city Justinopol. 

Ulpiana11.1 di Atdheu - Opera Propria - Licenza CC BY-SA 3.0 - WIKI Commons

 

In 1406, Prince Paul Dukagjini (1384-1446), referred to as "the wisdom", put on the top of the Principality of Dukagjini Ulpiana metropolis (new city founded again by him), which reigns on along with his brother Nikole Dukagjini, noted for his "bravery". Later on, in 1410 the heir Prince of Paul Dukagjini was born in Ulpiana, Leke Dukagjini, whose cultural background is supposed to be done in the most advanced developing centers of the time, such as Shkodra, Ragusa, Venice.

Dukagjini fought under the command of Skanderbeg against the Ottomans during the last two years of the legendary war of Skanderbeg. During times of peace they also fought against each another, as Albanian loyalties came and went during that period of their history. Dukagjini continued to fight with limited success against the Ottoman Empire, carrying on as the leader of the Albanian resistance after the death of Skanderbeg, until 1479, and becoming, with him, the most famous and welcomed Albanian Hero for Albanian People.

Overshadowed by the legend of Skanderbeg, Dukagjini is most well known for the set of laws ruling the highlands of Northern Albania, known as the "Kanuni i Lekë Dukagjinit". Although researchers of history and customs of Albania usually refer to Gjeçovi's text of the Kanuni as the only existing version which is uncontested, written by Lekë Dukagjini, it was actually incorrect. 

The text of the Kanuni, often contested and with many different interpretations which significantly evolved since 15th century, was only named after Dukagjini, not in the sense he effectively compiled the book but since his was the first attempt to collect and systematize customary norms of Albanian People. Whilst identifying Skanderbeg as the "dragon prince" who dared to fight against any foe, chronicles portray Dukagjini as the "angel prince" who, with dignity and wisdom, ensured the continuity of the Albanian identity.

It was estimated that in 1450 the capital of the Principality fell and the fighting that took place there completely destroyed Ulpiana. Evidence of the destruction and looting of everything from Ulpiana are the base in the Basilica in line with one more paleochristian basilica in Gracanica, close to Ulpiana buildings, whose foundations are made of reused stones, showing as well fragments of the “Stela Dardanian” inscriptions.  

Ulpiana16 di Atdheu - Opera Propria - Licenza CC BY-SA 3.0 - WIKI Commons

 

So the looting of the stones that Ulpiana basilica lasted in the centuries, helped raising the XIV century Gracanica monastery. Even this was a bargain between the Serbs and the Turks who had to do with the looting of everything from Ulpiana with the sole purpose to make radically disappear any autochthony Illyrian presence in that city. In 1458 Prizren, center of commerce and culture developments in the Principality of Dukagjini, fell, and, in 1458-1481, Leke Dukagjin built some strength in depth of his principality territories.

After the Turkish invasion on the big Illyrian centres, everything went to change for the structure of these cities. Construction of the Mosque of Sultan Murad, Sultan Pajaziti, Baths, etc. in the vicinity of Ulpiana - in today Prishtina - are recorded but also in other centers elsewhere Peja and Prizren.

Today we are not able, nor can restore a castle or a princely palace of Leke Dukagjin, while, much less, we could appreciate and admire what does not exist any more with superlatives: “the best in the world, in the Mediterranean, in the region”, because at that time “the castles in prosperous cities (Albanian) ... the mansions of monuments ... vanished from the earth ... remained as the beauty and the splendor of the old” (Fan Noli: 591-592).

As - again - this writing of Fan Noli, we not only care about the renovation but also allow the archaeological discoveries emanating from those who destroyed them, just those who looted, ransacked, and destroyed all that was Dardanian - Illyrian - Albanian.
 

Ulpiana17 di Atdheu - Opera Propria - Licenza CC BY-SA 3.0 - WIKI Commons

«Archaeological excavations conducted in 1953 allowed to bring to light the remains of the thistle, a temple, fortifications, some buildings and a basilica to one navata. It was detected a necropolis, in the north of the settlement, which returned epigraphs and several sarcophagi, which are still in situ, one of which in marble.

Shortage of funds, lack of specialized staff and location extremely uncomfortable have not allowed scientists to create a comprehensive study and a definitive one on this site, still used for cultivation by local farmers who, working fields, extract archaeological assets of every kind and involuntarily cause destruction of fragile or reversal stratigrafy. 

To these problems is added the presence of illegal immigrants who benefited from the total absence of police and the responsible for the area, stealing any finding to sell almost exclusively to foreigners.

During surveys to Ulpiana it has been possible to observe the deep state of degradation prevailing in the area of necropolis and the northern sector. In particular, some sarcophagi appear deliberately damaged for reasons still unknown. The covering slabs are also moved».

Ulpiana22 di Atdheu - Opera Propria - Licenza CC BY-SA 3.0 - WIKI Commons

So the research that will make the invaders showed we lose not only Ulpiana, but slowly we will lose history which makes us proud as being Illyrian, being Albanian. Today personally consider that invaders destroyed and killed us for 500 years. Dear reader once again the only question is ... 

Where are you going, this people, and what will be after a few year, in this nation? People disappeared in war but more in peace.

So, day by day, my people is dying, dying from that to not have history, and people without history is dead!